This is a very easy scarf pattern. Although the lacy stitch pattern looks a little complicated, it uses only chains, and single and double crochet stitches. Once you establish the pattern, it is only a simple one row repeat, which is easy to memorize. It is simple to make this design wider or narrower, and I think it would make a pretty shawl also.
Notes:
I used WW weight yarn and a K hook. The stitch pattern is quite dense in places, so it drapes better if you use a hook that seems a little large for the yarn. I crochet loosely.
This pattern uses a stitch multiple of 4 plus 1. Then you add 3 more to your beginning chain for the turning chain. (which in this case means that your beginning chain has to be a multiple of 4.) This means that you could make a narrower scarf by subtracting 4 stitches or make a wider scarf or a shawl, by adding stitches in multiples of 4.
My scarf turned out to be 7 inches wide. If I made it again, I might make it a little narrower, but this scarf is going to a "warm the homeless project" that was organized by one of my co-workers so the width will be welcome for warmth.
Stitches used: ch: chain dc: double crochet sc: single crochet
Special stitches: cluster: 1 dc and 1 sc both in same chain or stitch v stitch: 1 dc, ch1, 1 dc all done in the same chain or stitch
V stitch in v stitch means that you make a v stitch in the chain 1 space of the v stitch in the previous row.
The chain 3 that starts each row is there to give the scalloped effect along the edge of the scarf and is not used as a working stitch. Just ignore it when you get to the end of the row. The last cluster is worked into the last actual stitch of the row, not the turning chain.
The Pattern:
Chain 20. Remember to use a hook that is a couple of sizes larger than the yarn calls for, so that your scarf will drape nicely.
Row 1: Make cluster into the 4th ch from the hook), **skip a ch, v stitch in the next ch, skip a chain, cluster into the next ch**, repeat from ** to **. You should end with a cluster in the last chain. Ch 3, turn
Row 2: Skip the first sc, make a cluster in the next st, (which is the dc of the cluster below), **v stitch into the v stitch below, cluster into the DC of the cluster below**, repeat from ** to **, ending with a cluster in the last DC of the last cluster. Do not stitch into the ch 3 turning chain. ch 3, turn.
Repeat row 2 until your scarf is as long as you want it to be.
The pattern consists of clusters worked in the DC of the clusters in the row beneath alternating with v stitches worked in the chain 1 space of the v stitch in the previous row.
If you don't want the scalloped edge, using a ch 2 as a turning chain will make the edge straighter. If you choose this option, you would need to subtract one chain from the beginning chain.
Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake. You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.
Up until yesterday we had been enjoying unseasonably warm weather for this time of year. In fact our grass was still green and we've only had a few frosty mornings.
This morning we awoke to around 10 inches of snow on the ground, and it has been snowing most of the day. No wonder my snowman looks so happy. He's sitting on the front porch on a bench that my dad made me a few years ago.
I'm not overly fond of snow, but it is very pretty. It's a perfect day to sit by the fire and read a good book. (which is exactly what I'm going to do after this!)
Round 1: Ch 3, (counts as a DC) and make 11 more DC in ring, join with ss to top of beginning ch 3. (12 dc)
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same stitch as join. ch 1, sc in next st, ch 4, *sc in next st, ch 1, sc in next st, ch 4*. repeat from * to * around ending with ch 4. ss into top of first sc. You should have 6 ch 1 spaces and 6 ch 3 spaces.
Round 3: Ss into the first ch 1 space, *into the next ch 3 space work sc, hdc, dc, trc, dc, hdc, sc, ss into next ch 1 space*. repeat from * to * around, end with ss in top of first ss.
Fasten off and work in ends.
Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake. You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.
We spent the last week in the Great Smokey Mountains National Park area. Fall is such a gorgeous time of year to visit there.
The first two pictures were taken along the Gatlinburg bypass road, and the other two were taken in the park.
The second picture from the bottom, (the road through the trees) represents one of my favorite scenes. The road through the trees seems so peaceful, and I love the idea of not knowing what's beyond the bend.
The last picture is the view from a picnic area (Metcalf Bottoms) where we ate lunch one day. Even though it was cold and rainy here in Michigan it was 75 degrees and sunny in Tennessee that day.
Covered hangers keep your clothes from sliding onto the floor. This is easy to customize to any plastic hanger.
WW yarn Size G hook Plastic clothes hanger Yarn needle
Stitches used:
SS - slip stitch Ch – chain Dc – Double crochet
The beginning ch 2 represents a DC. All rounds are joined with a ss to the 2nd ch of the beginning ch.
I chain loosely, so I use a ch 2 to represent a DC in this pattern. If you wish, you can use a ch 3 to represent the beginning DC of each round. You will have to add a chain at the beginning of every round and join each round to the third chain of the beginning chain.
This pattern is a lattice design worked in rounds. Each round has 8 DC in it, and they are separated by spaces made of varying numbers of chains in order to make the cover fit around the hanger.
To begin each new round after round 2, ss to the next ch space.
Keep trying the cover on the hanger you are making it for and add chains as needed for the cover to fit. The fit should be snug. It took 13 rows to cover the hanger I used. I have two different brands of plastic hangers, but they are almost exactly the same size.
PATTERN This pattern covers half the hanger, so you will need to make 2.
Ch 4, join into ring with SS.
Round 1: Ch2, Dc into ring, Ch 1, + 2 DC into ring, ch 1 +, repeat x 2 from + to +. You should have 8 DC and 4 ch 1 spaces.
Round 2: Ss to space between first 2 dc, ch 3, + Dc into next space, ch 1 +, repeat from + to + around, join
Round 3 and 4: Ss to ch 1 space, ch 3, +dc into next ch 1 sp, ch 1+, repeat from + to + around, join.
Round 5 to 7: Work same as rounds 3 and 4, but increase every other chain space to 2 chains. You will have 8 dc’s with 8 spaces, 4 will be ch 2 spaces, 4 will be ch 1 spaces.
Rounds 8 to 10: Work same as round 5, except increase every chain space between the dc’s to 2 chains. You will still have 8 DC’s and you will have 8 ch 2 spaces.
Rounds 11-12:
Work same as previous rounds, but increase every other ch space to 3 chains.
Round 13: Work same as previous rows, but increase each ch space to 3 chains.
If this is too small for your hanger, just continue in pattern, adding chains to the spaces as needed for your hanger. Keep trying it on the hanger as you make the cover.
Make another half the same and fit them over the clothes hanger. Sew together down the middle. I sewed all the Dc’s together. I just wove the yarn through the chains to get to the next pair of DC’s. Alternatively, you could tie the two halves together on both sides of the hanger, at the top and bottom with yarn or ribbon. This would make it easier to remove the cover at a later time if you wanted to.
Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake. You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.
Ch 3, 7 HDC in 3rd ch from hook, join to top of beginning ch.(8 HDC)
Round 2:
Ch 2, Hdc in same st,2HDC in each st around, join to top of beginning ch. (16 HDC)
Rounds 3 to 6:
Ch 2, Hdc in each st around.(16 Hdc)
Start working back and forth in rows.4 stitches in the round will be left unworked.
Row 7:
Ch 2, Hdc in the next 11 stitches. (12 Hdc)
Row 8 and 9:
Ch 2, turn, Hdc in each st around(12 Hdc)
Row 10:
Ch2, turn, Hdc in next st, HDC 2 together 4 times, Hdc in last 2 stitches(8 HDC)
Now you will again work in rounds.
Round 11:
ch 1, turn.
You will be working along the ends of the rows just completed.
Make 6 sc evenly spaced across the ends of rows 7 to 10.
Sc in the 4 stitches left unworked from round 6, then make 6 more sc evenly spaced along the other ends of rows 7 to 10.
Join with a ss to the first sc on the other side.You will have a bootie shape with a slit in the heel.(16 sc)
Round 12:
Ch 2, HDC in each st aroundJoin with SS to top of beginning ch 2.(16 HDC)
Round 13:
(eyelet row)
Ch 3, skip a stitch, + Hdc in next st, ch 1, Skip a stitch +repeat from + to + around , join with SS to top of beginning ch (8 ch 1 spaces)
Round 14:
SS to a ch 1 space,ch 3, 2 dc in same space, make a 3 dc in each of the other ch 1 spaces, join with ss to top of beginning ch 3.
Fasten off, leaving a tail long enough to weave down to the slit in the heel and sew it up.
Weave in ends.Thread a length of ribbon through the eyelets, or make a crocheted chain to use for a tie.
These booties can be made smaller by omitting a round, or larger by adding a round or row.They can be made taller by adding a row of sc or another shell row at the end.
Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.
Join each round with a ss in top of the beginning chain.
Round 1:
Ch 4, 11 Dc in 4th ch from hook, join with ssto top of beginning ch.(12 DC)
Round 2:
Ch 3, Dc in same st , 2 dC on each st around., join with ss to top of beginning ch 3 (24 DC)
Round 3:
Ch 3, + 2 Dc in next st, DC in next st +repeat from + to+ , 1 more Dc in same st as beginning ch 3, join with ss to top of beginning ch 3.(36 DC)
Round 4:
Ch 3 and Dc in each st around, join with SS in top of beginning ch 3.(36 DC)
Round 5:
(this row still increases the diameter of the hat.)
SS to next st,ch 3, 2 more DC in same st, + skip a stitch, 3 DC in next st +,repeat from + to + around, join with SS in top of beginning ch 3. (18shells, each with 3 DC)
Round 6 to 12
SS to the center st of the next 3 DC group, do 3 DC in center stitch of each shell around.
Round 13:
Ch 2, HDC in next st and in each st around.
Fasten off.
Notes: You can easily make this hat bigger by adding some extra stitches in row 4.
Remember that row 5 increases the number of stitches again by 1/3, so don't add too many stitches. You need an even number of stitches in row 4 to make the pattern work.
You could also make the hat larger just by using a larger hook.
Add extra rows of shells to make hat taller.
If you want a turned up cuff add a few more rows of Hdc at the end.
Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.
I saw a really cute snowman made from fabric yo-yo's the other day. I wondered if I could re-create it in crochet and this is the result.
First you will need to make at least 6 yo-yo's. These are three dimensional, similar to the kind that are made for use in quilts or for embellishing things, rather than the flat circles that I would consider a crocheted yo-yo.
This snowman would work in any size yarn; for example: thread would make a tiny ornament. Once you get the basic idea of how he is constructed you can easily make him taller, shorter, fatter, etc.
You could also make a Santa, by using red yarn for the yo's, maybe with a black center yo-yo for his belt. Add a Santa face and hat, put a buckle on the belt, embellish with some whiskers and you will have Santa Claus. A pumpkin is another idea that would work up really easily this way. I think it would even work to make an angel.
Pattern Gauge is unimportant.
First make 5 different size yo-yo's. You will need a total of 6, but two of them are the same size.
Materials -WW yarn in white, (I estimate that I used between 3 and 4 Oz), small amounts of black, orange, and blue
-H and G hooks
-buttons, beads or whatever you would like to use for embellishment
-small amount of white stuffing for head
-Yarn needle
-sewing needle and black thread (used to sew embellishments onto the snowman, you could glue them on instead)
Stitches used:
Ch -chain
SS -slip stitch
DC -double crochet
HDC -half double crochet
SC -single crochet
Special Stitches These are the way I did these techniques, not necessarily the correct way. You can use whatever method you like. Neatness and accuracy aren't that important here, since this won't show much.
DC 2 tog -Double crochet two together
Yarn over hook, insert into next stitch, Yarn over hook, pull through two loops on hook, yarn over hook, insert into next stitch, yarn over hook, pull through two loops on hook, yarn over, and pull through all loops on hook
HDC 2 tog -Half double crochet two together
Yarn over hook, insert into next stitch, yarn over hook, pull through two loops on hook, yarn over hook, insert in next stitch, yarn over hook, pull through all loops on hook.
Body of Snowman:
The body of the snowman is made up of yo-yos:
Use White yarn and H hook
Note: Start all DC rows with a Ch 3, start all HDC rows with a ch 2, (these count as stitches)
If a row is done in SC, start with a ch 1 and do a SC in the same stitch. In this case the ch 1 does not count as a stitch.
Finish all yo-yo's by gathering as directed in Yo-Yo 1.
Everything except the scarf is worked in rounds.
Yo-Yo 1 (make 2)
Leave a very long tail (say around 24 inches) on one of these to use for sewing the yo-yo's together. If you forget, don't worry about it, you'll just have to weave in an extra end!)
Ch 4 and form into a circle with a ss.
Round 1: Ch3 (counts as first DC( and do 11 more DC in the circle.) Join to top of beginning Ch 3 with SS (12 DC)
Round 2: Ch 3, Dc in same st, 2 DC in each st around Join to top of beginning Ch 3 with SS. (increase a stitch in every stitch) (24 DC)
Round 3: Ch 3, 2 DC in next st, *1 Dc in next st, 2 DC in next st* repeat from * to * around Join to top of Beginning CH 3 with SS (increase a stitch in every second stitch) (36 DC)
Round 4: Ch 3, DC in next st, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next 2 st, 2 dc in next st* repeat from * to * around Join to top of beginning ch 3. (increase a stitch in every third stitch) (48 DC)
Now start decreasing:
Round 5 and 6: Ch 3, DC decrease over next two stitches around, until you get to the last st. Dc in that st, and join to the top of the beginning ch 3
Fasten off, leaving a tail 8 or 10 inches long. Thread this tail into a yarn needle and weave the yarn through the stitches of the last row. Pull together tightly to gather the yo-yo into a fluffy shape. If its not fluffly looking enough for you gather up a few random stitches from the previous row also. The gathered side is the top of the yo-yo.
You should have something that looks like a squashed ball, pretty flat on the bottom and sort of ruffly and wrinkly on the top.
Yo-Yo 2: (make 1)
Made the same as yo-yo 1 with the addition of one more increase row.
After round 4 do a row where you increase in every 4th stitch. (60 DC)
Do two decrease rows, same as rounds 5 and 6 of yo-yo 1.
Yo-Yo 3: (make 1)
Same as yo-yo 1, except use HDC in place of all DC's. Use HDC's to do decrease rows rather than DC decrease.
Yo-Yo 4:
Same as yo-yo I except:
Round 1 and 2: Do HDC's in place of all DC's
Round 3 and 4 : Do SC in place of DC's
do only one row of DC decreases before gathering.
Yo-Yo 5:
Same as y0-yo 1 except:
Do round 1 Same as yo-yo one.
Round 2: Use Sc in place of DC
Do one decrease row using DC stitch.
This should give you 6 yo-yos, in 5 different sizes.
Fasten off and weave in all ends except for the long tail that you left for sewing the yo-yo's together. To assemble the snowman's body from the yo-yo's stack them in this order, starting from the bottom and working up to the snowman's neck:
#1, 2,1,3,4,5. The largest yo-yo is second from the bottom and they get progressively smaller as they go up. If you wanted to, you could make an additional yo-yo #3 and use it as the bottom yo-yo. This would give a more rounded silhouette to the snowman. The bottom yo-yo should have the long tail for joining the yo-yos together.
To join them together, thread the long tail onto your yarn needle. Pull the yarn up through the center of all the yo-yo's. when you get to the top, turn around and go back down to the bottom. Make sure you catch some strands of the top yo-yo before you go back down. You can either fasten off or repeat this step to make the joining a little more secure.
I forgot to leave a long tail, so I just brought a long strand of yarn up through the yo-yo's back down again and then I tied the ends together and tucked them into the bottom yo-yo.
One time up and down seemed secure enough to me, but my snowman is just going to sit on a shelf.
Here's what the snowman should look like so far
HEAD
Use white yarn, and G hook.
Chain 3, join with SS to form circle.
Round 1: Chain 2, 9 HDC's in circle.Join to top of beginning ch 2 with a SS. (10 HDC's)
Round 2: Ch 2, HDC in same st, 2 HDC's in each st around Join to top of beginning ch 2 with a SS. (20 HDC's)
(If you want a larger head do another increase row, increasing in every 2nd stitch as in yo-yo one, before continuing. My snowman's head was too big, when I did this. I actually still think my snowman's head is a little too big, but this is a matter of personal preference. You could make it smaller by doing 10 HDC's in round 1 rather than 12)
Rounds 3 to 7: Ch 2, HDC in each st around, Join to top of beginning ch 2 with a SS.
Round 8: Ch 2, HDc decrease in next 2 stitches around, HDC in last st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Weave in beginning yarn end. Stuff head with stuffing. To some extent you can control the head size by the amount of stuffing you put in it. Thread tail on yarn needle, and gather bottom of head together to form it into a ball. Leave a tail long enough to use for sewing the head to the body.
Sew head to body.
HAT
Use black yarn and G hook.
Work through round 2 of Yo-yo 3.
(note that if you made a larger head, you may want to work another increase row (possibly in sc) before starting the sides of the hat)
Start sides of hat:
(if you are using very stiff yarn, you may be able to get by with HDC's rather than SC's here and do fewer rows)
Round 3: Ch 1, Sc in same st, sc in the front loop only of each st around. Join to top of beginning ch 2 with a SS. (24 SC)
Round 4and 5: Ch 1, Sc in same st, and in each st around. If you want a taller hat do another row or two.
Last row of sides of hat: Same as row 4 and 5 but increase round by 2 sc (26 sc)
Start Brim:
Round 1:
Chain 2, and turn. Hdc in same st as joining. 2 HDc in front loop only of each st around Join to top of beginning ch 2. (52 HDC)
Round 2: ch, Sc in each st around. Join to first st.
You can make the brim wider by repeating round 2.
Fasten off and weave in ends. Shape hat brim with your fingers.
Sew hat to snowman's head. I used the end tail to do this.
Scarf
Chain 45, (or however long you want the scarf to be,), turn and HDC in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across. Fasten off. I added some fringe to the ends of my scarf.
Tie scarf loosely around snowman's neck.
Now that the snowman is assembled, give him some personality with embellishments.
I used beads for eyes, buttons for buttons, and sewed a cardinal button to his hat. I made an orange yarn french knot for a nose, but I haven't managed to give him a mouth yet. I've tried three times to embroider one on, and none of my attempts worked out. I'm going to leave it like this for now and buy some smaller black beads next time I'm out and use those for his mouth.
Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.
These are very simple. I wanted napkin rings to go with my Christmas dishes. However, it would be really easy to make these to go with any set of dishes.
My rings turned out about 2 inches in diameter, and about 1 1/2 inches high.
I used Lustre-sheen yarn and a F hook. I think size D or E would've been a little better, but I can't find any of my smaller hooks. I also used 1/8 inch wide ribbon.
Chain 26 and join with a slip stitch to make a circle.
Round 1: Being careful not to twist the chain, CH 1, and then SC insame stitch, and in each chain around, joining to the first SC with a SS.
Round 2 and 3: Ch 1 and SC in same stitch and in each stitch around, join with a SS.
round 4: Ch 3, *skip a stitch, HDC in next stitch, ch 1*, repeat around, skip last stitch, join to 2nd chain of beginning ch 3 with a SS. (You are doing a HDC in every other stitch, with a ch 1 between them.) If you wish to use wider ribon, you may need to do DC in place of the HDC's. In that case start the round with a chain 4)
Round 5: Ch I, SC in same ST, and in each St and chain 1 space around. Join with a SS.
Round 6 and 7: repeat rounds 2 and 3.
Fasten off and weave in ends. Weave a short length of ribbon through the spaces of round 4 and tie in a bow.
If you wanted to use WW yarn, you will probably want to begin with a shorter starting chain. Thread would also work with a longer starting chain.
Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake. You may sell items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.
This scarf works well for a man, since it isn't at all lacy.
This isn't by any means an original stitch pattern. I've seen it or something very similar in several patterns.
I apologize for the lousy picture. I tried to get a close up picture to show how nice this simple stitch pattern looks. It kind of reminds me of frozen waffles. Eventually I will get a better picture and replace this one, but I don't seem to be able to get one today.
Materials: Worsted weight yarn (I used one 6 oz skein of TLC Essentials in dark brown, to make a scarf that measures about 7 inches wide by 5 feet long.) size K hook (6.5 mm)
Gauge; doesn't matter My scarf came out about 7 inches wide. I worked the scarf quite loosely.
Stitches used: ch - chain sc - single crochet sc2tog - single crochet two together (insert hook in 1st sc, draw up loop, insert hook in next sc, draw up loop, put loop of yarn around hook, and draw through all three loops on hook)
Chain 22 loosely(or any even numberof chains depending on the width you want)
Row 1: sc in second chain from hook and in each chain across (21 sc) (pattern works on any uneven number of stitches)
Row 2: ch 1,* sc2tog in next 2 sc, ch 1*, repeat from *to* until you get to the last stitch, sc in last stitch.
Row 3 and following rows: ch 1, *sc2tog using the sc and the ch 1 loop from the previous row as the two stitches that you sc together, ch 1* repeat from * to * until you get to the last stitch, sc in last stitch.
Continue row 3 until the scarf is as long as you want it to be.
Last row: sc in each stitch and ch 1 loop across. (21 sc.)
This doesn't make a perfectly straight edge, but I like the way it looks, kind of a subtle wavy edge,so I leave it as it is, but if you wanted to you could edge it in sc.
I also like this stitch pattern for dishcloths because it is quite solid, but not too thick to get into small places. You can also do this stitch by stitching into the chain loop rather than into the ch 1 space. I just think it's easier to go into the space, and it makes the stitch a little more solid.
Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake. You may sell items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.
This dishcloth has rows of ribbing to give it a little texture, so it works well for scrubbing.
My picture isn't very good, but it gives you an idea of the texture.
Finished size: about 10 inches wide x 11 inches tall
Materials:
Sugar and cream twists or any other WW cotton yarn, about 2 ounces
Size J hook
Stitches used:
Ch = chain
Sc = single crochet
Hdc =half double crochet
Fphdc =front post half double crochet
Bphdc =back post half double crochet
Pattern:
Chain 30
Row 1: sc in second chain from hook and in each chain across.(29 sc)
Row 2:ch 2 (does not count as stitch) hdc in each stitch across
Row 3:Repeat row 2
Row 4: ch 1, sc in first 2 stitches, +Fphdc around post of next stitch, Bphdcaroundpost of next stitch+repeat from + to + ending with FPHDC, until you get to the last two stitches, sc in last two stitches (29 stitches).
Repeat rows 2 to4,six times.Your dishcloth should measure around 9 ½ inches, and you should have 7 Front post/back post rows.
Last row: ch 1, sc in each st across (29 stitches).
(optional) Work a row of sc around the entire dishcloth, placing 3 sc in each corner.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.
I tried to block this one with spray starch and it didn't work out very well. the picture is lousy, but I think the general idea is there. This pattern is suitable for a beginner.
I used size 3 thread and a C hook. My flake is about 4 inches from point to point.
Stitches used:
ch chain
ss slip stitch
dc double crochet
tc triple crochet
Ch 5, join with ss to form a ring.
Round 1:Ch 3, dc into ring, ch 2, *2 dc into ring, ch 2*, Repeat from * to* 4 more times,join to top of first ch3.(You should have 12 dc and 6 ch 2 spaces.)
Round 2:Ss to first ch 2 space,ch 3, dc, ch2, tc, ch2, 2 dc all into first ch 2 space, in each of the other ch 2 spaces work the following: 2dc, ch2, 1 tc, ch2, 2dc. Join to top of first ch 3.
Round 3: ss to first ch 2 space, *Ch 7, ss into fourth ch from hook, ch 4, ss into next ch 2 space.Ss in next 2 DC.Ss in space between the next 2 DC and ch 3, join with ss to same space.SS in next 2 dc and into next ch 2 sp.*, repeat from * to* until you get back to the beginning.
Finish off. Stiffen and block.
Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.
Marie Anne challenged me to a 6th picture post. The sixth folder in my picture file only has 5 pictures, so I will post that one. Its a dishcloth that I made recently. Here is how I made it. This isn't much of a pattern, just a way of makeing a thinner stretchy crochet fabric. Chain 29. (or any uneven number to get the width you want) Row 1: Sc in second chain from hook and in each chain across. (28 SC) Row 2: Ch1, sc in first st, * sc in FLO of next stitch, in BlO of next stitch* repeat from * to * until you get to the last stitch, sc in last st. Continue with row 2 until you dishcloth is the size you want. Finish with a row of sc through both loops to make a more solid ending row.
If I was a little more ambitious, I would have added a single crochet border all around.
Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake. You may sell items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.
Size: can be made to fit from about age 2 to age 4
Materials: Worsted weight yarn
H hook
Stitches used:
Ch (chain)
Hdc (Half double crochet)
Dc (double crochet)
Sc (single crochet)
Ss(slip stitch)
Slippers are made starting at the toe.The first part is made in the round and then you will be turning at the end of each row to form the ankle opening.Beginning chains count as first stitch in all rows. Slippers can be made to fit a longer foot by working row 7 once or twice more. You could also work an extra round 3. The slippers are designed to come up toward the top of the instep, so they will stay on little feet better.
Chain 4, and ss into first ch to form a ring.
Row 1:Ch 2 , 8 hdc in ring, join to top of beginning chain 2 with ss. (9 hdc)
Row 2:Ch 3, dc in same stitch, 2 dc in each stitch around, join to top of beginning ch 3 with ss(18 dc)
Row 3-6:Ch 3,turn, Dc in each stitch around, join to top of beginning chain 3 with ss. (18 DC)
The following rows are no longer worked in rounds.
Row 7-10:Ch 2, turn, DC in next 13 stitches (14 DC)
Form heel shaping:
Row 11:Dc in next 4 st, * dc decrease in next2 stitches*, repeat from * to * once, DC in last 5 st (12 st)
Row 12:Ch 2, turn, Dc in next 3 stitches,*dc decrease in next 2 stitches *, repeat from * to * once, Dc in last 4 stitches.
Join top two corners of slipper with ss,
Row 13 and 14:Ch 1, sc evenly around ankle of slipper, join to first sc with ss.
You can work an extra round or two of row 13 to make the slipper come up higher on the ankle.
Fasten off leaving enough length to sew back of slipper together.Weave in ends and finish.
To make the slipper a little larger add another repeat or two of row 7.
Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.
